A local’s guide to Barcelona
- By Meg Bernhard
- Photos by Javier Luengo
In the early 20th century, Barcelona’s beloved architect Antoni Gaudí wrote that his dream was to transform his home city into a Mediterranean metropolis. He wanted to “construct beauty” that captured the essence of the natural world surrounding Barcelona: the glimmering sea to the east and the green hills to the west.
Nearly a century after his death, Gaudí’s vision has turned into reality — but at a cost. The city is now so popular that it’s overrun by tourists all year round, and locals wonder to whom Barcelona actually belongs. But if you get out of the center, the city transforms from a land of selfie-sticks to a quiet town where the mountains meet the sea.
Climb up into the city’s leafy upper neighborhoods to visit museums and monasteries; stroll for a mile up the shore to La Barceloneta or Poblenou for a glass of cava; meander from plaza to plaza in Gràcia. Your wanderings will take you to neighborhood arroces — barbecues with paella — and street fairs exploding with fire crackers. The magic of Barcelona is spontaneity. Just get out of El Gótico.
Meet Meg Bernhard
Meg has lived in and out of Barcelona since 2017. During her time in Catalonia, she’s worked as a journalist and lived on vineyards. A California native, Meg feels right at home in Barcelona, where sunshine, sea, and wine are aplenty.
Want to get in touch?
Email bytheway@washpost.comStay
Explore more of Barcelona
Eat
- Catalan is not Spanish. It’s a completely different language. Do yourself a favor, and learn a few Catalan phrases: Bon día (good day), bona tarda (good afternoon) and salut (cheers).
- Be prepared for fire and loud noises. Catalans celebrate with bonfires, fireworks and correfocs — “fire runs” involving people dressed as devils and waving sparklers.
- Catalans, like other Spaniards, eat their meals late. They usually eat a large lunch between 2 and 3 p.m., and have a small dinner from 9 p.m. onward.
Do