The Washington PostDemocracy Dies in Darkness

Kraft’s iconic American cheese is losing ground in today’s America

February 22, 2019 at 3:52 p.m. EST
The same factors that made Kraft Singles an American household staple are eroding the product's appeal for modern consumers. (Justin Sullivan/Getty Images)

Food conglomerate Kraft Heinz took a $15.4 billion write-down in two of its most powerful brands this week, a jarring warning that even the most iconic American names are vulnerable to shifts in consumer tastes.

The hit on the value of the Kraft and Oscar Mayer labels on Thursday highlights the struggles that packaged-food companies face as they try to keep up with evolving palates and the rise of smaller, organic and online competitors. Though Kraft Heinz boasts some of the most distinctly American products — Jell-O, Kool-Aid, Kraft Macaroni & Cheese — nostalgia isn’t enough to guarantee sales in the age of fresh-focused eating.